The ships and ferries that sail around the Rinns Of Galloway are guided in part by a light that has shone without daily human intervention since 1994. Corsewall Lighthouse still glows as brightly as ever, but in common with all Scottish lighthouses it is now an automated beacon. These days, the lights are as likely to guide you towards the structure as away, for now you can stay at the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel – a four-star venue offering five-star cuisine with a ten-star view. Former keepers accommodation at this listed building has been converted into six luxury bedrooms, with suites available in buildings situated next to the lighthouse. This is a fine base indeed from which to explore Dumfries and Galloway.

 

Actually, hold that thought for a moment. With phrases like “most badly affected” and “disinfectant mats” cropping up across the media seemingly every time that this part of Scotland is mentioned, you might be forgiven for thinking that the entire area is indefinitely out of bounds; that a vast swathe of the country is in stasis as far as visitors are concerned. It simply isn’t true. Some visitor attractions are of course closed because of Foot And Mouth disease, mainly nature reserves and those on farms, but the message which clearly resonates from businesses in the area is clear: proceed with caution, but do visit.

 

Compared with the splendid isolation of Corsewall, you’ll find that the location of the lighthouse in Portpatrick is positively urban, lying next to the pier in this delightful village some five miles from Stranraer. This is an extremely attractive and photogenic location, so little wonder that it’s seen itself on the big screen a couple of times; the ending of “Hunted”, the 1951 remake of “Kidnapped” was shot here, as was part of “Double X” in the Nineties. Portpatrick clings to the edge of the sea. The attractive harbour belies your initial impression that the rocky coastline here would make any mariner nervous, and the views out across the North Channel towards Ireland can be stunning. However, none of this is to suggest that Portpatrick is a place in which to simply “be”, rather than “do”; the Old Lighthouse Pottery and the Portpatrick All-Weather Sports Facility are both worthy of investigation.

 

Portpatrick isn’t the only part of Dumfries and Galloway to find itself familiar with film crews, as viewers of BBC1’s “2000 Acres Of Sky”, starring Michelle Collins, might have done some investigating of their own in an attempt to find the island of Ronansay. They won’t have found it – it doesn’t exist – but Port Logan does. The vast majority of filming took place here, a tiny coastal village with spectacular views across the water suggesting that there might be as many acres of sea as sky. There isn’t a great deal to do here; inevitably though, in a place as beautiful as this, that might just be one of the best reasons to visit. Nearby, and worth a look if passing, are the early Christian stones at Kirkmadrine. They were discovered in the 19th century, and recognised as dating from as far back as 600 AD. Oddly, these stones are the only trace of the early Christian church which was here, and the parish church which followed it.

 

This is an area rightly famed for golf. You will find over thirty courses here; a mix of 9 and 18 hole challenges. For stunning views of the Irish Coast, Isle of Man and the Mull of Kintyre, not to mention what Golf World called “the best holiday course in the South of Scotland”, try Dunskey course. A more exclusive experience, perhaps, is to be had in Gatehouse of Fleet: check yourself into the four-star Cally Palace Hotel and enjoy their private 18 hole, 70 par parkland course.

 

Stranraer is the hub of this area, a ferry town with connections to Northern Ireland but more than worthy of exploration itself. The Castle of St. John features an exhibition detailing its many different uses over the years – court, military garrison, prison, and even home; not to kings or queens, but to medieval landowners the Adairs of Kilhilt, who built the castle and then used it as a symbol of power. The imposing nature of the structure, sitting squarely in the town centre, suggests that it may have fulfilled this particular function quite successfully. Nearby, the Old Town Hall is the location of Stranraer Museum, a wealth of local information: if you didn’t know about the town’s Polar explorers, for example, then here is a good place to start.

 

Dumfries and Galloway may not share a climate with the polar regions, but after a cycle trip around the area you might be forgiven for thinking that there is almost as much open space. Cyclists can enjoy many tarmac roads and quiet rural lanes with little nuisance from traffic in this corner of the country. The B7041 runs from Port Logan almost all the way to Scotland’s own “Land’s End” – the Mull Of Galloway, which is actually as far south as Darlington.

 

There is no doubt that Foot and Mouth has caused, and is causing real problems for many in Dumfries and Galloway. However, many believe that these problems could only be exacerbated if visitors who are attracted by what the area has to offer decide to stay away unnecessarily. The precautions which need to be taken are clear and simple, and won’t for a minute stop you losing yourself in this wonderful place.

 

Of course, if you do get lost, then just look for the light.