(The Scotsman)

On flights to the Danish capital, it is possible to listen to your Walkman in some style. You can purchase earphones from Danish hi-fi legends Bang and Olufsen that make the usual in-flight sets feel like pebbles taped to your head; if they whet your audiophile appetite, head to their city centre store on touchdown.

 

Of course, it almost seems wasteful to think of shopping in a city like Copenhagen. Why should you be spending time spending money in this place of palaces, canals, gardens and diminutive mermaids? The answer lies on Strøget; “the shopping street”. This pedestrian area is home to a bewildering array of vendors all justifiably keen for your kroner. A number of places describe themselves as "purveyors to her Majesty the Queen of Denmark" – and, in the best tradition of relaxed European monarchs, she is frequently found here in person. In a shopping district fit for a queen, it is perhaps unsurprising to find the likes of Prada, Mulberry, H&M and Esprit; and remember here the value of mere window shopping – on Strøget, the buildings are almost as attractive as the clothes which they house. Some of the best international fashions are to be found at Illum’s, with a wide range of designer wear. Take care however – you don’t want to run the risk of not fitting into your new purchases because you’ve over-indulged in the delicious chocolates and confections that are also sold here! Strøget is punctuated by many superb eateries such as Café Europa and Café Norden, which are situated around Amagertorv, and which provide a welcome chance to recharge your batteries. It’s not far to Kronprinsensgade, where you will find a delightfully anachronistic shop by the name of Perch’s. Here you can buy tea weighed on metal scales and tied up in paper with string – it’s a charming contrast with the hyper-modernity of the surrounding fashion houses and their catwalk-hot clothing.

 

When you can shop no more, it’s time to head back to base, stow your bags, and consider the more conventional stretches of Copenhagen’s tourist trail. Queen Ingrid will have gone home by now as well, to Amalienborg Palace – residence of the royal Danish family. Here, four mansions (outwardly identical but different inside) face onto a large statue of Frederik V. For a succinct sightseeing experience, head to the small island of Slotsholmen. Located in the city centre, it is here that you will find the Danish Parliament (Folketinget) and Christiansborg Castle, not to mention the Danish Supreme Court and a number of ministries. As if that wasn’t enough, the castle is the latest of many to occupy this site. In 1167, Bishop Absolon constructed the first, which was then replaced by Copenhagen Castle, and then by Christiansborg. The building burnt to the ground in 1794, being rebuilt thirty years later only to be razed again and finally rebuilt in the new baroque style in the early part of the twentieth century. During the construction of this last structure, the Danish National Museum undertook a process of excavation and protection. This now means that in one place you can find both the remains of Denmark's main castle from the Middle Ages, and, the seat of modern politics in the country.

 

The Little Mermaid is certainly smaller than the imposing buildings on Slotsholmen, but no less impressive. That is confirmed by the fact that it is the most photographed statue in the world; yes, even beating the Statue Of Liberty. It is the icon of Copenhagen, and to visit the city without snapping a shot of your own is almost unthinkable. Hans Christian Andersen first published his fairy tale in 1837. Hans Beck later told the story using ballet, and Danish brewer Carl Jacobson (whose family lager is probably the best in the world) was so impressed by a performance by ballerina Ellen Price, that in 1909 he commissioned a statue to commemorate the story. The Little Mermaid is 88 this year, but is perhaps not venerated by all citizens of Copenhagen. In her long life she has been decapitated three times, and, perhaps challenging the Scandinavian reputation for being entirely comfortable with nudity, has also had a bra and knickers painted on!

 

The Little Mermaid gazes out to sea; this is difficult to avoid in a country that has water on almost all sides. To be able to drive across it to a neighbouring nation had long been the aim of those behind the Øresund Bridge project, and that ambition became a reality on the 1st of July 2000: you can now travel across the Øresund from Denmark to Sweden in ten minutes. It is an astonishing achievement; it took five years and almost 3000 workers to construct the ten-mile crossing. A long motorway tunnel leads from the Danish side onto an artificial island three miles long, and then to that simply enormous bridge; five miles in which the feeling is that of flying over the sea, rather than simply driving across a strait. The crossing isn’t cheap – expect to pay around 460 kroner (38 pounds) for a return trip – but still at a price which, pound for mile, shames the operators of the Skye Bridge. The Øresund project has created a powerful new economic zone comprising of Copenhagen and the Swedish city of Malmo, which is just a couple of miles from the bridge and incidentally worth a quick visit if you’ve invested the cash to cross!

 

The appetite which you’ll run up in a long day of doing is easily dealt with back in Copenhagen by a splendid variety of restaurants. For an excellent fish dish, try Gilleleje in the picturesque canal area of Nyhavn, or traditional "smørrebrød" open-faced sandwiches at Petersborg in Bredgade. A good meal and a decent night’s sleep, and it’s off up Strøget again. Now, where did those credit cards go?